Six waterfalls, two couples, one trail — and some of the most stunning blue water you’ll find anywhere in Costa Rica.
We’ve hiked Blue Falls of Costa Rica before. But we’d never done it in October, the heart of rainy season — and that changed everything. Normally it’s a manageable hike, yet this time it turned into white water, river crossings, ice-cold pools, and waterfalls so powerful you can feel them in your chest.
So is Blue Falls worth it in rainy season? Below, we walk through exactly what happened, plus everything you need to know before you plan your own trip — the cost, which waterfalls need a guide, and what to pack (because what you bring is critical).
Where Blue Falls is — and getting there
The Blue Falls sit in Bajos del Toro, a small mountain valley tucked between the Poás and Platanar volcanoes. From San José, plan on about a two-hour drive up winding mountain roads that climb straight into the clouds.
One thing we can’t stress enough: bring a 4×4. Don’t risk it with public transportation or a low car, because in the wet those roads are no joke. There’s also a beautiful stop near the top of the mountain, up in the clouds, with incredible views and photo (and drone) opportunities. And here’s our first big tip — leave early. During rainy season the mornings are clearer, while the afternoons will bring rain, so an early start beats both the crowds and the downpour.
What it costs and how it works
Here’s a detail that trips people up: the entrance for Catarata del Toro is the same entrance as the Blue Falls, but they’re two separate hikes. You can pay for one, the other, or both.
Catarata del Toro is the dramatic 90-meter single waterfall. Blue Falls, meanwhile, is the six-waterfall trail — and that’s what we did this day, skipping Catarata del Toro to go straight for the blue. When we visited, Blue Falls ran us around $20 US per person, so check the current rates before you go, since prices shift and a combo ticket for both trails is often better value. If you do want both in one visit, plan it ahead so you can budget the hours.
A couple of logistics worth noting: the falls are open Monday to Saturday, roughly 7am to 5pm, with the last entrance around 4pm. They’re closed on Sundays, so don’t make the drive that day.
The trail itself
The trail is about four miles round trip with a lot of steep steps. On a dry day, we’d call it a medium hike. Keep those words — “dry day” — in mind, though, because rainy season is a completely different animal.
The start is gorgeous and deceptively easy: purple flower-lined paths, cool mountain air, everything dripping green. Then you spot the bright yellow watch out for snakes sign — lovely. For the record, stay on the trail and watch your step and you’ll be fine; we’ve never seen a snake there. You’ll also find guides stationed at each waterfall, and for two of them you’ll genuinely need their help.
The first three waterfalls
1. Tepezcuintle — Named after a small, shy jungle animal. You cross a suspension bridge over a river that, in October, was roaring — the first thing rainy season shows you. The color from above is unreal, and it’s real: the blue comes from volcanic minerals in the water scattering the sunlight. Reaching the best viewpoint means crossing into the middle of the rapids, so this is the first spot where the guide truly earns their keep.
2. Las Gemelas (The Twins) — Two streams of blue water falling side by side into the same pool. Fitting, since we were two couples hiking side by side all day. In dry season you’ll see people swimming here, but in October the water was way too strong. So this became a look-don’t-touch waterfall — and an honest tip: if the guides or signs say the water’s too strong, believe them. It can look calm on top and still have a hard pull underneath.
3. Pozo Azul (The Blue Pool) — Nina’s favorite. To reach it you cross the river itself, which is the second spot where you want a guide’s hand (no shame in it). And then you see it: the bluest blue either of us has ever seen in nature, almost milky, like it’s lit from underneath. Nina had one rule — get in the water no matter what. Shawn had one rule — film it from dry land. Because the water comes straight down from the mountains, it’s take-your-breath-away cold, a true cold plunge. But once you’re in, you’re floating in turquoise surrounded by jungle, and it ended up being Nina’s favorite part of the whole day.
The last three waterfalls
Around here the rain arrived, and the “dry day” hike was officially over. The steps turned into little streams, so every step took real focus.
4. La Turquesa (The Turquoise) — There’s a sign here that just says dangerous, and they mean it. Step around the corner, though, and La Turquesa is all power, with mist reaching you from way back. We’ve hiked here many times and have never seen it this strong.
5. La Pintada (The Painted One) — Right next door, named for the colors in the rocks behind the water (something we only learned while researching this trip). Five waterfalls in, legs shaking, completely soaked — and yet we were having the best time of our lives. That’s the thing about doing something hard with people you love: the hard parts become the story.
6. La Celeste (The Heavenly One) — More steep, wet steps (Nina was talking to her knees out loud by this point). You hear it before you see it — the whole jungle shaking. We’ve stood here before, but never like this. That was the rainy-season gift we didn’t expect: it took everything out of our legs, and then it gave us that.
Planning your own Blue Falls trip
Here’s everything we wish someone had told us:
Cost: Around $20 US per person for Blue Falls when we visited. Catarata del Toro is a separate hike from the same entrance, so decide ahead if you want both and look into the combo ticket.
Go early: You’ll get clearer mornings, fewer people, and you’re off the trail before the afternoon rain. Also check the hours before you go — open Monday to Saturday, closed Sundays.
The hike: About four miles round trip with a lot of steep steps. It’s medium difficulty when dry, but a lot harder when wet. Guides are at each waterfall, and two crossings genuinely need their help when the river is high and fast.
Rainy season vs. dry season: Rainy season runs roughly May to November. On the upside, you get stronger waterfalls and greener jungle. On the other hand, you also get slippery trails, and swimming may be off-limits. For an easier day, come in dry season; for the wild, powerful version, October delivers.
What to bring (this part matters):
- Hiking shoes, sneakers, or water shoes with real grip
- A rain jacket or poncho
- A dry bag for your phone
- Your swimsuit on under your clothes
- A towel, snacks, and water
- A full change of clothes waiting in your car — trust us, you’ll need it
What the day was really about
We walked out soaked to the bone, legs shaking — and holding hands.
That’s what we love about a day like this. It’s not really about the waterfalls. Instead, it’s about who’s next to you when your legs give out and the rain starts. It’s the friends who flew all the way from Bermuda to get muddy with us, and it’s getting to do it beside the one you love. (Link this phrase to your “How We Met in Costa Rica” post.)
Blue Falls is beautiful any time of year. But in rainy season it’s wild — powerful, and it’ll push you a little further than you planned to go. So if you’re up for that, go.
Your turn: Which couple would you drag along on this hike? Tell us in the comments — we read every one.
Click here to check out our Couples Retreat in Costa Rica